BIS Hallmarking Requirements for Export Jewellery
20 June 2025
India is one of the world's largest jewellery exporters, with gems and jewellery exports contributing significantly to the country's foreign exchange earnings. The intersection of BIS hallmarking requirements and export regulations is an area that jewellery manufacturers and exporters must navigate carefully.
The Export Exemption
Under the current mandatory hallmarking framework, gold jewellery manufactured exclusively for export is exempt from BIS hallmarking. This exemption exists because export jewellery is typically produced to the specifications of the importing country or buyer, which may differ from Indian standards. Requiring BIS hallmarking on top of destination-country requirements would create redundancy, additional costs, and potential conflicts between marking systems.
What Qualifies as Export Jewellery
To qualify for the export exemption, jewellery must be manufactured by an exporter registered with the Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT), destined for a specific international buyer or market, and documented with proper export orders, shipping bills, and customs declarations. Jewellery that is manufactured for export but subsequently diverted to the domestic market loses its exemption status and must be hallmarked before domestic sale.
International Hallmarking Standards
Different destination countries have different hallmarking requirements:
United Kingdom — The UK Hallmarking Act 1973 requires all gold articles above certain weight thresholds to be assayed and hallmarked by one of four UK assay offices (London, Birmingham, Sheffield, Edinburgh). Indian BIS hallmarks are not accepted; articles must be re-tested in the UK.
United Arab Emirates — Dubai's Bareeq system requires precious metal articles sold in the UAE to carry the Dubai Central Laboratories Department certification. The UAE is a major destination for Indian jewellery exports.
Vienna Convention countries — Over 20 countries that are signatories to the Vienna Convention on precious metals accept each other's hallmarks. India has expressed interest in acceding to this convention, which would eliminate the need for re-testing in member countries.
United States — The US does not mandate hallmarking but requires accurate karat quality labelling under Federal Trade Commission guidelines.
Documentation for Export
Jewellery exporters typically need the following documentation:
- DGFT registration and Import Export Code (IEC)
- Export orders specifying purity, design, and quantity
- Assay certificates from an accredited laboratory confirming purity
- Shipping bills filed with Customs
- Certificate of Origin where required by the destination country
- Kimberley Process Certificate if the article contains diamonds
The Role of Assaying Centres in Export
While BIS hallmarking is not mandatory for export articles, purity testing remains essential. International buyers require assay certificates from accredited laboratories. BIS-authorized Assaying & Hallmarking Centres, particularly those with NABL or IAGES accreditation, can issue assay reports that carry credibility in international markets.
At Varsha Bullion Hallmarking Centre, our IAGES accreditation ensures that our assay reports meet international standards, supporting exporters who need reliable third-party purity certification for their international clients.
GST and Customs Considerations
Export of jewellery is zero-rated under GST, meaning exporters can claim a refund of input GST paid on raw materials, manufacturing, and hallmarking charges. The customs duty exemption under the Advance Authorization scheme allows duty-free import of gold for export production, subject to export obligations.
Future Outlook: Vienna Convention Accession
India's potential accession to the Vienna Convention would be a significant development for jewellery exports. Membership would allow Indian hallmarked jewellery to be sold in over 20 countries without re-testing, reducing costs and turnaround times for exporters. BIS has been aligning its hallmarking specifications with Convention criteria in preparation for this step.
Practical Advice for Exporters
Exporters should maintain separate inventory tracking for export and domestic production, ensure purity testing is conducted by an accredited laboratory, stay updated on destination-country hallmarking requirements, and work with a hallmarking centre experienced in supporting export documentation needs.
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